Leo Prothmann, a London-based fashion designer, reflects back on his memories of the past referring to his origins and traditions to encapsulate the core elements of the Finca Collection. Growing up in Spain, and later adulting in Germany, Prothmann sustains his core beliefs as the foundation for his creations. Finca indulges in self-discovery and reinstating identity, while composing conservatism in the life ideals of countryside practices. From farming in the countryside to hospitality services, Leo Prothmann expands on what shaped him as an individual and where his present path leads him.
The collection “Finca” was shown in an intimate presentation format allowing to closely interact with the accessories and the garments. The garments were exhibited on the mannequins, and sculptures, hanging from the chains or the wall enabling the audience to walk by and brush their own clothes against the recent collection. “We have decided on a still presentation where we have curated this as a showroom, store, exhibition, presentation, slash an experience for all of my guests, friends and the community to have a look at the craftsmanship of the work we do.”
“Finca” is a Spanish word for farmhouse estate or ranch, as briefly mentioned by Leo himself, he grew up in the Spanish countryside where he spent most of his childhood, “It’s all inspired of me going back home for Christmas to Spain, where it’s a bit cold but not too cold.” Incorporating short denim skirts alongside water over-the-knee platform boots conveyed a sense of a breezy winter on a sunlit day. Surrounded by Finca full of animals and nature, Leo preserves the mentality to create durable garments that can be worn on a ranch or in the streets of a metropolitan city.
Durability aspect correlated to the ethics of the workwear attire and how it’s amplified towards the materiality. Highlighting textiles such as denim, canvas, rubber and leather to ignite the concept of resistance. The term “Finca” explains itself on its own through the crossbreeding of materiality within a single look, shifting between the way the garment can be seen in movement. Every part of the garment can be seen as having its character but harmoniously working with each other when worn on the body. Finca becomes a re-discovery of the designer’s past and the honouring of the present, “It’s a celebration of where I’ve come from and where I’m going, blending heritage with modern craft.”
Leo Prothmann Finca AW25, Look 18 & 4
Finca collection employed previous motives such as the Maxi Shell Parka but has been altered to a fabric alteration, “We have a new version of the Parka this season which is made of fur and felted wool, we used to have these exact blankets for our horses for competition while they’re waiting. I used to be a horse rider. Last season we did it out of leather, but this time its out of felt wool, this time we wanted to have a smooth feeling towards it.” Along with the classic Prothmann silhouettes, there were new motives in the brand, the inclusion of a tailored elongated jacket co-constructed with a tailor, John Llewelyn.
Having a painting foundation, Leo displayed several of his paintings during the presentation. Some were finished, some not, “I think my paintings are kind of like a play just, figuring out some colours and some structure, and just me being more free with my work. It’s more constraining than it being on the canvas. Like this took me five years to paint, so it’s probably finished. Like this one is still not finished. One over there is fully finished. The invite painting is sort of finished but I kind of like that it’s not fully finished.”
Painting enabled the designer to find the colour pallet for that season. Worth mentioning, the act of painting probes into creating free strokes, which liberates the designer in the creative process. Abstracted forms in unison with dry brushing accumulate a desirable pallet, the lack of principles within the artwork contrasts with fashion, where the main focus can be said to fulfil the functionality aspect of being put on the body. The splashes of paint were reflected on the rubber boots “When you go to the horses and donkeys, you obviously can do it with your bare fingers but we always have gloves on so you don’t get the the shit on you. You always have the rubber boots and gloves, which are all painted by myself. So it’s just a nice balance to get in the textures.”
A human journey that is deeply entwined with memories, sceneries, and artistic development is symbolised by Finca. It combines Leo Prothmann’s personal tradition with modern craftsmanship, honouring both his past and the current. Hoping that those who see outside fashion can comprehend the storytelling and resonate to a certain extend with the collection.