Virginia Evangelista, a Milan-based jewellery designer, redefines adornment by blending inspiration from palaeontology, biology, and geology with a dystopian futuristic edge. Utilizing techniques like cuttlefish bone casting and 3D printing, her creations—crafted from 925 silver—resemble archaeological relics, seamlessly bridging the ancient and modern. Beyond her innovative designs, Virginia has achieved significant success on social media, where she has gained a devoted following captivated by her unique artistic vision. Each piece tells a story, evolving alongside its wearer.

1. What led you to pursue a career in jewellery design?

Pursuing a career in jewellery design and establishing my own brand came in a very natural and spontaneous way, as a transformation and application of my interests and fascination with the material. The idea first took shape in 2019. I had just graduated in Art History from the Academy of Fine Arts of Brera in Milan, but I found myself in a state of confusion and dissatisfaction. My course had been highly theoretical, and I felt the need to complement my studies with something practical. I began experimenting with graphic design software, creating shapes that drew inspiration from my interests in archaeology and palaeontology. My first piece, Embryo I, came to life from a simple desire: I wanted to wear what I created, fueled by a fascination with materials and their transformations. From that point, I fell in love with the ancient and complex craft of jewellery making. I started as a self-taught designer, gradually learning the techniques and laying the foundation for what would eventually become my brand, step by step.

2. What is Virginia Evangelista’s brand’s philosophy?

The philosophy behind VE is to create handmade body ornaments and objects that merge elements of archaic sources with organic and scientific studies, resulting in minimal yet complete structures. Each piece is envisioned as an archaeological relic- a talisman imbued with an ancient aura but seamlessly integrated into the present, designed to endure and be cherished in the future. At the core of the production process is the artisanal craftsmanship, ensuring that each creation is unique and individual. These principles directly challenge overproduction, mass seriality and fast-paced dynamics. Additionally, the brand focuses on maintaining a strong visual identity, through the use of photography, video and 3D scenarios that either complement or contrast the jewellery structures.

3. How much time do you dedicate to your brand?

At the moment, my entire day is dedicated to the brand. I manage all aspects myself, from design to customer care. Production is handled by a small local foundry in Milan, and my partner, who is a photographer and video maker, brings all the visual content to life. However, starting this year, I’m ready to expand my team!

4. Could you walk us through your creative process when designing a new piece?

I am fascinated by the interdisciplinary research across various fields and the connections I can find- how the forms and technologies of our time are shaped by traces of the past, while also serving as the foundation for what will be created in the future. Each piece or series has its own unique process. I always start with a theme that intrigues me and I develop it. I reinterpret and reshape the elements to tell a story. For example, the Concretiones series was inspired by limestone rocks I saw during a trip to Southern Italy and the reflections that emerged on the alternation between voids and matter. Some of the rings are inspired by fossilized organisms, while the Atomos series, is inspired by reducing matter to its essential element, which, combined in different configurations, forms new structures. I start by creating prototypes in wax, testing and refining them, before having them cast in silver. The process can take anywhere from a few weeks to 4-5 months. Additionally, the communicative aspect is very important to me, so I also dedicate time to studying how I want each piece to be visually represented.

5. How do you balance traditional techniques like cuttlefish bone casting with modern technologies like 3D printing in your work?

Experimentation is really important to me, both in terms of techniques and materials. When I first started making jewellery, an old goldsmith introduced me to the cuttlefish bone technique, which is an ancient method of casting jewellery. Although it has its limitations and is no longer commonly used, it was a fascinating starting point. Now, production is entirely done using the lost-wax technique, and I’m committed to preserving traditional jewellery-making methods. However, I’m also fascinated by the potential of the materials and the possibilities that 3D printing offers, for instance, I created a pair of 3D-printed earrings in recycled nylon that would have been too heavy in metal. For me, experimenting is key to growth while keeping the artisanal nature of the craft at the forefront.

*Cuttlefish bone casting is a traditional metal casting technique used in jewellery making that involves utilizing the soft, porous internal shell of a cuttlefish as a mould. The process is valued for its simplicity and the unique textures it imparts to the final piece.

Virginia Evangelista Production Process

6. Is it an intentional aesthetic choice, perhaps reflecting a preference for simplicity?

It’s an intentional choice, based on the identity of what I want to create. I’m fascinated by shapes and structures that are complex yet minimal- clean, solid, essential, yet self-sufficient, without the need for additional elements. Certain types of stones intrigue me deeply, but gemology is such a broad field, and I would love to study it further and learn more.

7. The Amygdala Cutlery Set takes inspiration from ancient tools, emphasizing manual craftsmanship and material transformation. Given this concept, how do you see the relationship between functionality and artistic expression in these designs? Do you view them as practical tools, purely art pieces, or a blend of both?

Amygdala Cutlery Set draws inspiration from the first artefacts created in ancient civilizations, made as multifunctional tools. I’ve reinterpreted this concept, adapting it to our contemporary tools that serve multiple purposes. These pieces are a blend of both functionality and artistic expression. In fact, an initial set of cutlery was made for food use, while the current pieces are conceived as art pieces to have in your home.

8. What steps do you take to source materials responsibly?

The production steps are carefully controlled. Sustainability and environmental concerns have always been central to my work. The first pieces I created were made of aluminium, a material renowned for its infinite recyclability and the energy savings its process provides. For these items, I made a conscious decision to limit the quantity produced, ensuring they wouldn’t be reissued once new designs were introduced. For the silver pieces, the production process is kept minimal. Each piece is made-to-order, preventing overproduction. Every piece is crafted locally and certified and all the production waste is recycled to be remelted and reused. For me, it’s crucial to communicate the idea of creating fewer pieces, but of higher quality. Silver has properties that allow it to last over time, not to be replaced every season. Over the years, it can be simply cleaned and returned to its natural state.That’s why I also focus on creating a small, curated selection of pieces that are meant to be worn again and again.

9. What role do you see technology playing in the future of artisan jewellery? 

I believe that new technologies can certainly expand the ways we create, especially the tools we use, but I also think it’s crucial to protect the tradition and craftsmanship of jewellery making. Rather than just enhancing the designs and production, I’m more interested in exploring new materials and how the concept of what is considered precious might evolve.

I’m interested in how new methods of communication – such as 3D scenarios, virtual try-ons, etc. will transform how customers experience and interact with products online.

By Eva Shema