With Europe often being the focus of artisanal fashion enthusiasts, most forget what America has to offer. By opening up shop in Brooklyn, Zam Barrett and Richard Alexander Cooke remind us to not exclude the United States from the conversation.
ZFactorie
On the evening of August 12th, 2024 Zam Barrett’s ZFactorie opened its doors to showcase his SS24 and FW24 collections. Unassuming at first glance, ZFactorie poses itself as a harder gem to locate as its brick exterior blends in with the other commercial spaces on the diagonal strip. Distinguished by its rustic signage, the defaced door, despite its frigidness, manages to welcome guests traveling from afar. Upon entering, onlookers quickly meet what the collections have to offer.
His “Beast Coat”, a larger piece of outerwear presented through a display composed of welded rusted metal, is one of the most pronounced items of his concept store. Made of heavy cotton canvas, the garment’s oversized silhouette offers breathability and insulation simultaneously. The two large pockets on the sides of the coat uphold Barrett’s loyalty to utilitarian philosophy and provide more than enough space for the wearer’s needs, making any demand for a bag or similar article unnecessary. Contrasting in material are his revered leather jackets, which hang from the ceiling on chains that add to their intimidating air.
Leather, a grail resource for many artisans, is just one of the many materials in Barrett’s toolbox. Despite indicating mastery through the handling of a wide variety of textiles, usage of Moonstar Leather has lured in a percentage of his following worth boasting about. Characterized by suggestions of decay, the leather is a Zam Barrett staple and a key attraction in his shop. This leather sports erratic holes that vary in size and is supported by a base layer. The jackets, which are meticulously hand-dyed, frequently have exposed stitching along the seams of the arms, shoulder, and back. Barrett insists that these aspects intentionally defy perfection and supply the garment with soul.
Richard Alexander Cooke’s Atelier
Ending the week with an introduction to his atelier, Richard Alexander Cooke opened shop on Friday, August 16th, 2024. His self-effacing storefront is hidden by scaffolding, not indicative of much happening at first glance. However, once inside, blares of rock music quickly fill the space and set the tone for his latest collections: S/S_’25 ‘Animator’ and F/W_’24 ‘Epiphany’. Cooke opts to hang much of his work from the ceiling, leaving room for the atelier to be explored. The preservation of floor space allows visitors to attempt to perceive the Juki machines contributing to his creations, which he conceals with wine-red covers. Drawing inspiration from acclaimed rock groups like Alice in Chains and Deftones (whose albums he has placed in a sly crevice), Cooke’s clothing is equipped with defiance towards synthetics. Made entirely of purely natural fabrics, his garments pledge allegiance to the Earth and its innate resources. With many of his pieces being stamped with his strategically arranged whip hand stitches, the garments position themselves as inimitable.
Taking color theory into account, Cooke’s clothing adopts a notably muted color palette. From smokey grays to pale beiges, the low saturation communicates a sophistication that enables true examination of the details of his work. One of the key components are three buttons that are placed on the cuffs of sleeves, the closures of collared tops, and the closures on bottoms. Revealing Cooke’s version of a trilogy, the series of threes profess a commitment to completion, harmony, and creativity.
Community Growth
Starting and ending the week with the opening of two showrooms marks the expansion of artisanal fashion’s relationship with New York’s supposed creative hub. Cooke, Barrett’s pupil at one point, now joins him as one of the torchbearers for the community. Community, a major value of artisanship, has weaved itself into both of their shops. While much of the ZFactorie is baptized with grim hues of paint, Barrett prioritizes space for a bright contribution: an abstract mural depicting what appears to be a psychedelic creature painted by his long time friend and artist, Rohan O. Henry. Similarly, Cooke features works ranging from shoes, accessories, and paintings by fellow craftsman, Mason Reed.
Artisans under the Cooke and Barrett tutelage are predicted to put forward their workmanship in the three years to come. September 6th, 2024 New York’s first day of fashion week, awaits shows featuring the works of Henry Kerns and Marco Oldhafer, members of the artisanal community. Without a shadow of a doubt, something very momentous is being stitched together and underway out in Brooklyn.
