Dover Street Market was opened by Adrian Joffe and his wife Rei Kawakubo, the founder of Comme de Garçons. The first location that announced the opening of the multibrand fashion store holder was in London in 2004. Featuring designers from alternative establishments and avant-garde dynamics promoting and supporting brands with strong fundamentals and creative outcomes. Bringing all kinds of creatives under one roof, including art installations, all in the name of fashion, ceasing to merge the worlds of art and fashion. Dover Street Market paves the pay for more established maisons as well as upcoming designers. The influence of the store expanded overseas, opening stores in New York, Los Angeles, Beijing, Tokyo, Singapore, and now Paris.
Dover Street Market Paris opened publicly on May 24, 2024. The store is located in the Le Marais location, 3537 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, known for its young and artistic tendencies. The ever-changing art installations are approached with the opening of the tall curved wooden structures, in the courtyard, printed with the photographs of Paolo Roversi, who is a long-time friend and collaborator with Rei Kawakubo. Following the anti-department store approach, the Dover Street Market Paris carries across the borders creative that jointly produces a difference in the fashion hemisphere. During the Spring/Summer 2025 Paris Fashion Week, Dover Street Market opens its doors further on to introduce the collections of several dynamic individuals that allow us to dream.
Airei
Airei, driven and established by Drew Curry, based in Los Angeles. “Airei” comes from the Ancient Greek expression “to cut away” or “to lift up,” which is mainly where the Airei’s aesthetical DNA lies. Deconstruction combined with unique methods of construction can be found in the unveiling of the hidden beauty of the clothes through the visibility of the hidden. Curry’s storytelling touches on philosophical and heartfelt themes that assemble the garment with external human conditions.
Spring/ Summer 2025 titled “Walhalla” reveals a persona who ventures on a personal quest, progressively the depth of the fabric colour becoming darker and heavier with the journey. The utilisation of the natural colour palette alongside the natural dyes creates a worn-out effect heightening the climax of the storytelling. The cotton and denim are naturally dyed through mud-dyed staining techniques in order to make them look like labour-intensive workwear garments. The inclusion of various textiles just as the mix of silk and metal emphasises the fragility with the strength of the persona in the journey. Mentioning the possibility of the fragility of the human flesh in the journey which is highlighted by the open-netted woven knitwear that makes the body vulnerable to the exterior. The garment can be treated as protection for the body, but it is also seen as the result of a voyage. To accompany the garment there are large textile bags and leather accessories developed in collaboration with Ecco Leather.
Random Identities
Random Identities was founded by Stefano Pilati, a Creative Director oriented in menswear. Pilati is well acknowledged for his experience in Vogue, Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, Zegna, Armani, and Cerruti. Random Identities founded in 2017 and launched by the end of 2018 focuses on accessible fashion that reflects on queer culture and gender shifts within the culture. Including garments that are genderless and engage with contemporary culture.
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection reveals symbols of 1970s fashion in the USA capturing the essence of hope and social belonging. Garments become symbols of belonging and expression from historical references that unite with the identity. Combining the forms of classical tailoring and contemporary design there is a versatile selection obtaining the innovation in the interaction between the wearer and the body. Tailored suits and bottoms play along the 1970s Americana continuing the narrative with twisted flare of bottoms, shorts and skirts. Alongside the tailoring, bomber jackets imply varsity print stating “If I had a Hammer I’d smash the Patriarchy.” The collection accesses a bridge between the past and the present indicating references from the 70s Americana and the current beliefs. The accessories complete the collection with the two collaborations New Era—for headwear– and Dan Loafer—for footwear.
Phileo
Philéo Landowski, established his brand Phileo in 2019 based in France. Before the beginning of his brand, Landowski found himself working for Phoebe Philo in Céline in 2017, kick-starting his learning of accessory and garment making. Phileo innovates features in both timeless manner and contemporary shapes, organically accompanying the functioning and comfort of the footwear. Intrigued by the architectural vision of the footwear it encapsulates the engineered structure formulating the movement of the individual wearer.
For Spring/Summer 2025 titled “Pray for Rain” surrounds a song by Massive Attack in the 2010 album “Heligoland.” Within the collection, there is a question of finding the collective rhyme to form a union. Hope is the fundamental message that speaks for renewal or the perennial re-birth. Philéo Landowski alludes to “a story about reinventing oneself, crossing paths, finding a rhythm and staying true to our environment while the world is bursting in flames.” The incorporation of braids, straps and buckles reminisces the human relationships that are continuously interlinked with each other—while being supported by the artisanal soles and further contributing to the primary codes of the Phileo brand of exaggerated volumes and minimal lines.
ERL
Designed by Eli Russell Linnetz and based in Venice Beach, Los Angeles, ERL has contributed to maintaining genderless garments since 2018. Capturing ready-to-wear in a free-spirited and radiant nature corresponding to the Californian ideology. The optimistic vision for garment-making allows the ERL vision to combine elements from 20th-century America and 21st-century cultural dynamics. Additionally, Linnetz collaborates with celebrities and brands such as Kanye West, Lady Gaga, Kim Kardashian, Burberry, Bvlgari and Apple Music.
The Spring/Summer 2025 explores the theme titled “The Beach” expanding on the Americana theme. Following the four protagonists, Tyler, Jason, Chad, and Brad, leave their water polo practice to go to a party where they find a mysterious entrance to a private beach. ERL storytelling brings the possible wearer closer to the clothing by painting cinematic scenery. The focus of the garments is on American staples such as polo, cargo pants, sweatshirts, cardigans, and tracksuits. Incorporating the prints of old Hawaiian florals and 70s surf culture. Tailoring textiles allows for comfortability–dense cashmere, ribbed knits, and velvets—expanding on the Californian couture. This season’s colours include tones of the ocean, faded sunlight, and shades of all of America red, white and blue.
Rassvet
A skateboarding company based in Paris and founded by Tolya Titaev contributed to fueling the skateboarding scene. The brand includes a community of creative personas from scenes of music, art and skateboarding. Focusing on the young generation that is believed to be forward-thinking and generating hope. Rassvet translated from Russian means “sunrise” demonstrating the desire for strength and uniqueness reflected in the brand. The brand’s approach is to create a new vision that is concentrated on international collaboration igniting various design features.
The 16th collection of Rassvet attributes to the Rassvet universe the creation of both individual and collective identities. There is a metamorphosis of fashion experience also becoming a personal experience of sorts. The incorporated graphics are references from archives and friends which Rassvet cherishes the most. The graphics include a dog graphic being stuck at the gate hole and a mask, photographed by P. Franks. Graphics likewise incorporate animated characters with a label of “no bullying.” Furthermore, a close friend, Cristian Bravo, of the founder of Rassvet, collaborates to reach out towards realistic photographs and envisioned muses that embody the brand.
Westfall
Brett Westfall, who is a visual director and a designer for the Los Angeles-based brand Westfall. Producing a universe that is surrounded by the lens of Californian punk. Best known for its distressed look and dynamic graphics accentuating comfort. Every season pays a way of elaborating on statement pieces that originated from the inspirations. Westfall is recognised for its skateboarding background, which is applied to the quality of the product. Emphasised for its durability in performance for those that contribute to the skateboarding industry, binding the worlds of fashion and skateboarding.
Spring/Summer 2025 titled “Earth Science ” orchestrates a narrative of video games, robots, Nintendo, cities, music and the general throwback to growing up in the 90s. Celebrating the obsession with the subjects of technological development and imagination. Capturing the essence of creative exploration in the approaches in art and design. “During my last trip to Japan, I was deeply inspired by this serene yet vibrant atmosphere of Tokyo,” claims Westfall. Drawing inspiration from his personal ventures, “Earth Science ” regards the fusing of culture, lights, lifestyle, and colour—immersing the designer into a creative scene of Japan. Digital prints are offered by colleges or cut-outs of cyberpunk cities or peaceful dream worlds. The theme of the graphics echoes a sense of freedom and exploration of a new culture.
Sky High Farm Universe
Dan Colen and Daphne Seybold the creators of the Sky High Farm Universe at the beginning of 2022 sustained collaborative pathways towards a goal of food security and food sovereignty. The business model structure inverts traditional health in order to donate to Sky High Farm each year while distributing profit to employees or donations. In two years the brands generated donations of over $500k. Alongside DSM, Sky High Farm Workwear is able to produce, sell, and distribute the collections. In collaboration with Comme des Garçons SHIRT, Balenciaga, Nike, Nadia Lee Cohen, Mario Sorrenti, and many more collective creativity fuels the growth and shifts within each collection.
For Spring/Summer 2025, Sky High Farm Workwear collaborated with the artist and designed Eri Wakiyama for “Sweat Dreamz.” Wakiyama was born in Fukuoka, Japan moved to the USA later studying at the Parsons School of Design in New York. Developing a distinct style of illustration and design, she began working alongside several well-known figures in the fashion industry. In partnership with Sky High Farm Workwear, Wakiyama conveys a childhood nostalgia possessing elements in the form of mermaid bed sheets, tackling memories of comfort when being snuggled in the bed and falling into safe dreams. In the collection, there is a demonstration of the transition between childhood, adolescence to adulthood: childhood becomes a fragmented distant memory while the tension may rise giving into the reality of society. Reimagining the classic vintage bed sheets featuring the cast of Wakiyama characters, pushing the sleepwear attire with workwear silhouettes. Fabrics included in the collection are sourced from deadstock, organic materials and recycled textiles to accomplish the punky, deconstructed, and depressed sense of garments, yet, it’s juxtapositioned by hopefulness and naiveness.
