Ziggy Chen presents a new menswear collection for the season of Spring/Summer 2025, suggesting new signatures towards the brand. Ziggy Chen goes on to speak about his philosophy on garment making and new meanings.
Ziggy Chen offered the new S/S25 Show under the name of GNARTRICATE 盘 枝 错 节, which combines the Gnarled Branches and Intricate fusing them into becoming the name of the collection. Binding the collection to the Chinese idiom regarding capturing the hidden features of the plants. There is the revealing of the hidden which came to the invisibility of the roots. Stylistically, this can be seen through the layer of the clothing; some shirts are tucked into the pants, while the other side is exposed to open fluidity. The fluidity is additionally considered through the draped-down parts of the upper wear, which may gravitate to three-dimensionality. GNARTRICATE 盘 枝 错 节 collection further plays with contrasts of comfort and elegance or beauty and decadence observed through the pattern and textiles.
Including Looks 13, 33, 28
Spring/Summer 2025 season familiarises with a new colour which is a deep earthy purple. The addition of the colour does not remove from the former colours of the Ziggy Chen codes which are deep greens, greys, and browns. The purple can be interpreted as the reflection of the shadow and light that plays along the architecture that the roots are resting upon. Within the construction of the colour, comfort is applied through the fabric with a less aggressive structure. Ziggy Chen applies the tailoring of what is known to have the most structure in padded shoulder or right-to-measure shorted sleeves, to a more pleasant and relaxed fit. Contributing to the modernity of the wearer and the possibility of the interaction between the clothing and the wearer on an everyday basis.
Including Looks 7, 32, 29
Along with the garments, accessories optimised the look to the general serenity. Glasses are seen to be worn classically resting on the nose–behind the ears, while it can be also seen worn across the body on a chain. In addition, headwear contributed as beanies or as an aviator hat. Proposed with the classical wear of signature Ziggy Chen derby leather shoes.
Exclusive Interview
For your collections, you play with words to create a new word with a new meaning, how do these combinations of words come to you? (ex.Gnarled Branches + Intricate = Gnartricate)
It’s a way of thinking. It’s how I approach garment making. It’s also how I combine different elements, to be put together to find a new meaning. The theme of the collection every time is the word and another word, sometimes it becomes super abstract.
The look of your clothing feels like vintage wear but I believe the cut is very modern and relaxed, what’s your view on combining modernity and the past in your designs?
For me, clothing—a garment is something to wear every day– of course, the texture and the patterns collected come from the vintage but to make garments right now is to be comfortable, to be relaxed. For the aesthetic part, I’m drawn to the aged brass, vintage textiles and trees– but I want to put it into a modern context to make it actual clothes that can be worn today. Clothing is for people.
Your silhouettes feel like they are very kin to perfection and sensitivity, do you believe in perfection when designing a garment? If so, why?
I believe in perfectionism in terms of my way of working as a designer because to make it better and better you have to stay focused. Putting a lot of energy into it. If I relax too much you may see it in the collection. When focused there is a way of finding better solutions for textiles and pattern making. I’m always working.
In your opinion, what does the world need (can be through the lens of fashion or generally)?
What is important for everybody to be happy. For the world to be happy. Clothing is just a small part of it but it is something that can brighten up the day for the wearer. To make everyone live a happy life is really the goal.
Thank you to Ritual Projects PR and Ziggy Chen for having us at the show.
Title Photo Credits: Vera Pakhai