All In The Shoulder!

During the past Paris Fashion-Week Spring/Summer 2023 , designers mesmerised us by locations for the shows, special concept and sometimes unexpected materials. But one of the trends that clearly predominated was the XXL shoulder.

● Yves Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello presented the Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2023 collection centered on an icon of the 80s: Grace Jones.

Less glamorous than the winter satin dresses, the summer 2023 silhouettes are gaining in radicalism thanks to the sensual and transparent silk jersey, associated with small jackets and long leather coats.

This year the house proposed us a masculine and strong shoulder, played with texture, colors and length to create a perfect mix of the timeless YSL woman and the modern Parisian it-girl.

● Issey Miyake


The house Issey Miyake, should not be left behind, the runaway signed Satoshi Kondo, payed a magnificent tribute to the founder, Issey Miyake with a beautiful ballet.


The house put the shoulder in highlight in quite a few pieces. A shoulder
more rounded, bulky but very light because the designer used a lightweight stretch fabric with a water-repellent finishing.


Acid colors break the neutral tone of this collection called “A Form That
Breathes”. Innovation is always a priority for Issey Miyake which gives us
silhouettes that look like floating Origami.

● ROKH


Rok Hwang of Rokh titled his spring collection “The Irrational View” .
Hwang wanted to express the dilemma that designers have to make thing that have a purpose (the rational part) versus the desire to express
themselves without limit (the irrational part).


He revisited the trench for spring, a trench with a pronounced shoulder
using it as the basis ,then played with the cut or made cutouts at the bust
level that revealed the skin.


His creations are smart, inventive, and he gives us a very trendy and
irrational vision of fashion!

● Stella McCartney


With this new collection Stella McCartney revisits the past and takes an
interest in the 90s. She is not in a nostalgic approach; she simply wants to take stock of what she was to better define who she is, who she will be.


She presents a collection with a predominance of the suit jacket with very marked shoulders, which predominates the silhouette and gives the look of an assumed and sensual tom-boy.

● Alexander McQueen


Sarah Burton offers us a collection that sublimates the feminine forms. In
fact she tells us: “It’s how would you adjust the proportion of a woman’s
body? I feel like it’s always about a woman dressing for a woman,” she added.
“ So it’s not a male gaze. I wanted to sort of embrace the female form; to sort of slice away in a very kind of dissected way.”


To do this, she chose to showcase women in suits and jumpsuits with wide shoulders and a plunging neckline. We have a sculptural, modern and electrifying woman in red, black, blue or wearing a giant printed eye which symbolizes to quote Burton:“It’s sort of about seeing things again and being aware of the world around us” .

● Miu Miu


Miuccia Prada presents a collection that aims to be closer to our daily lives by combining practicality and sexy.


There is a superposition of cotton, silk and cashmere materials to which
are added patinated leathers and faded denims and the very famous micro skirt that can be found in several variations.


Another piece will have more particularly caught our attention : the
oversized blazer. A blazer with a very pronounced shoulder that gives a
relaxed and sexy look, the Miu Miu girl next door!

photo credit article: Tagwalk