We all remember this look from the last Venice Film Festival: cosmic like stepping out directly of the magic world of sandy knights and intergalactic lovers Zendaya presented ‘Dune’ accompanied with her movie partner Timothée Chalamet. Signed Balmain, this nude high-slit dress with a draped leather bodice stole the red carpet and let us divine: how (and by whom) was this one-off piece made? How could these stiff folds make 25-year old star resemble an alive Greece stature, so fine and flawless?

The answer we found in the Joyce Gallery where during the Paris Fashion Week the artisan specialist in leather Robert Mercier showcased his independent collection “The Hitchbag”, inspired by artist’s favorite film director Alfred Hitchcock and his characters. We found out that the unbelievable dress of Zendaya required a three-dimensional mould of the actress’ entire torso, from her shoulders down to her hips, that was then made into a glossy mannequin. Mercier then shaped the calfskin and lambskin to fit her body precisely.

Robert has been collaborating with Olivier Rousteing from Balmain but also with Schiaparelli and Jean-Paul Gaultier, if to name the most prominent of his clients. Thanks to his unique technique, one of a kind, luxury Maisons seem to queue to get him for their collections, without nevertheless promoting his name.

With this first exhibit, our “modest” hero moved from the big fashion houses closer to his tastes. Leathers pieces interacted with the erotic photos on the walls (shot by Gilles Berquet) unveil a universe of someone passionate, original, perfectionist and looking for challenges. Our personal crush is a skull made of ray skin, a very dense material particularly difficult to work with, given the circular shape of an object, a real piece of art.

If French high fashion still has a worldwide reputation for its incomparable craftsmanship, it’s thanks to such masters as Robert Mercier, rare and, alas not enough appreciated by money-holders of the fashion industry. Looking forward to making a full cover interview with this artist shortly.