On the eve the new pret-a-porter season we present five Spring-Summer 2019 collections that inspired us the most.
1. John Galliano. This is one of the best to the present moment collections of the British Bill Gaytten in his position of creative director of the fashion house. The collection is inspired by the movie “Picnic at Hanging Rock” shot in 1975 and based on an eponymous novel of Joan Lindsay. An atmosphere of the late years of Victorian era in boarding school for young ladies, behind the close doors of which good girls-gone-wild. Aprons with lacy wings, demi-sheer tulle dresses, checked prints and balloon-sleeves – featured elements of women garments of the beginning of the XX century the designer skillfully integrated into the modern context keeping in mind the brand’s heritage (famous Gazette prints of John Galliano to quote just one). Short-cut striped trousers with braces; nonchalantly cocked straw hats and leaving no ghost of chance to a look of a romantic creature gross army boots would find their deserved place in a wardrobe of a sophisticated slightly old-schooled (in the finest sense of the word) millennial. In a preview before the show, Mr. Gaytten shared his desire to make costumes for movies. Well, definitely it would be a new horizon to his dressmaker carrier, just let us hope that this intention will not bring him too far from the designed-for-life reality. Which would be a pity after so many years of research, which finally resulted in a perfect combination of personal touch and commercial success. So rare if not to say unique quality in a modern fashion.
2. Issey Miyake. Many elements inspired us at the show of young Japanese designer Yoshiyuki Miyama in his collection SS2019. Among them – the use of the Dough Dough fabric developed by the brand. Peculiarity of Dough Dough is that you can change the shape of clothes made of this innovative fabric – spread or fold the edges- directly on yourself. The colors’ palette is harmoniously balanced, coming from immaculate white and soft nude to the hues of blue, burgundy and very fashionable terracotta. Incredible wide-brimmed straw hats à la paisan refer to the traditional roots of the fashion house’s founder. Finally, the general positive atmosphere of the show with in the final models of all ethnics and colors walked together holding each other by hands, laughing and setting very relaxed do-not-take-it-too-serious mood much in contrast with a classical lineup. That is how we would like the fashion to evolve of the future: fresh, light, wearable, remember its history while looking forward; reuniting generations and speaking the same creative language. Looking ‘easy going’ with a complex work and innovative material behind.
3. Junko Shimada. Another breath of fresh air in the world of contemporary fashion, where catwalks are invariably turning into platforms for social and political statements to the detriment of their main purpose – to show clothes. Japanese designer arrived to Paris in the 60s. Like many talents before and after her, Junko succumbed to the enchantment of the French capital and stayed here for good. Inherent light-hearted aesthetics of the hippy generation — ‘make love-no war’ cultural and social movement influenced her youth — defines a DNA of the fashion house. Spring-Summer 2019 collection celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Woodstock Festival.
As one would expect, there is an explosion of colors on the catwalk; bell-bottomed jeans with trendy fringe, patchwork and paisley prints; ‘whipped”, which makes it look like dandelion hair and feminine tunics embroidered with daisies. The models come out either barefoot, or, as befits the guests of a rock festival, in cowboy boots.
And the best embodiment of the collection and the fashion house is Junko herself. Coming out for the bow, forever young, radiant, contagiously positive and sincere – the most Japanese of all Parisians, and the most Parisian among Japanese!
4. Anton Belinskiy. Not all of those gathered in the Paris Palais de Tokyo to see the show of a young Ukrainian designer had heard his name before. However, if Belinskiy participates in the official program of the ready-to-wear French week for the first time, he is well known and respected at home in Kiev. The finalist of one of the most prestigious LVMH competition, Anton Belinsky, is known, above all, as a talented stylist who knows how to bring together a creative dream-team of like-minded people. His shows are famous for provocative themes, be it the ambiguous political situation in the country or religious issues that inspired him to create the latest collection presented in Paris. The designer masterfully entwines traditional costume’s elements – embroidered towels (‘rushnik’) and dresses (‘vyshvanka’); yellow and blue colors of the flag of Ukraine – in modern looks, not devoid of boldness. Bright palette, mini-skirt, kitsch, in which echoes of the post-perestroika last decade of the 20th century are heard – Belinsky walks on an edge skillfully leading the story towards irony whenever it risks turning into a second-rate farce. By the way, the work of the stylist-designer is not limited to fashion: in 2017 his works were exhibited in the Ukrainian Pavilion of the Venice Biennale.
5. Ximon Lee. The following dialogue between the author of the article and the neighbor in the first row of the show will serve as a quintessence of the work of the young Chinese designer:
– Is it a girl or a boy?
– This is a human being of the future.
Critics have already baptized another finalist of the LVMH contest from our list of “5 designers to follow” of the Paris spring-summer 2019 fashion week as a ‘prodigy’ – an unusually gifted genius. Time will tell how ingenious the young man graduated of the famous New York Parsons School of Design will be. But looking at clothes he created, it seems that it was made for a post-apocalypse generation.
Perfectly cut, inspired by the brilliant past that has sunk into oblivion; body extending silhouettes; a noble jacquard (or just a successful trompe l’oeil fulfilled by a smart machine?), acidic “radioactive” colors and the almost complete lack of a gender identity of the models, which in this case does not bother, but looks very appropriate or even natural. The world of “Synthetic Creatures” (SYNTHETIC BEING is the name of the collection) Monsieur Lee is so harmoniously lined up that you unwittingly begin to believe in its reality. Is not it the main talent of a designer who creates a wearable, but not without a necessary to dream about fantasy, clothes? ..
