The official program of the haute couture week was enriched with a new invited by the Federation member (member invité). Forty years old Francesco Scognamiglio hails from Naples and is a friend of Donatella Versace and Madonna, who posed in his dress for the cover of her “Give it to me” single.

Parisian stage for this frequenter of Milanese catwalks is the embodiment of an old dream: it is no secret that the one who conquered the rebellious, not devoid of snobbery, capital of the fashion world – has conquered the world.

Did Francesco conquer Paris? His first collection showed the essence of his style: “My heroine is a strong, romantic and erotic woman, modern, but not alien to the classics” – confessed in a backstage interview the Italian designer. Rock multiplied by Rococo: golden threads, richly embroidering tulle dresses, create a lace effect à la Elie Saab; canonical over size coat with embossed floral pattern and inlaid Swarovski crystals seems to be inspired by Valentino creations; pleated flounces that create a theatrical volume on evening dresses and ostrich feathers remind us women-flowers of Alexis Mabille. The feeling of déjà vu does not leave for the entire collection. The “strongest”, in my opinion, look was the opening set consisting of a transparent PVC coat with mink collar and sleeves and the tights in sequins seen through.

Nevertheless the quality is just unquestionable: behind those nineteen defile looks one can see those tens, if not hundreds, of hours of manual work, prescribed by the status of a high standard. More experiments with less eying on colleagues’ work and all you will get there, Mr Scognamiglio!

Photo credits: Francesco Scognamiglio / Yanis Vlamos