The fashion development vector, which direction for the next autumn-winter season designers set in their prêt-à-porter collections today, continues to strive for gender unification. As always, fashion mirrors the mood of the society. Paraphrasing and sometimes exaggerating them, it creates the most accessible way of aesthetic expression to us: the audience and at the same time actors of the modern theater.

So the recent literature bestseller “50 shades of grey” of EL James, which continues to excite the imagination of ladies around the world, found its direct reflection in the collections of French designers, who, by the way, have always had a soft spot for this color of Parisian fall sky. Grey in its entire (hundred) fifty shades is an absolute favorite of coming winter.

John Galliano, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Christian Dior, Céline, Haider Ackermann, Lanvin, Andrew GN, Jean Paul Gaultier

The perfect combination of black and white has not lost its relevance, becoming a field for creative experiments of couturiers. Classic “white top – black bottom” (or vice versa) is evolving into the most unexpected variations, whether asymmetrical cut, individual elements or contrasting underside, deliberately opening up on tucked cuffs, collars and wrapped over skirt hem.

Akris, Balenciaga, Roland Mouret, Céline, Lanvin, Jacquemus, Andrew  GN, Anthony Vaccarello

The new (or rather half-forgotten) fascination of couturiers with checks in the upcoming season can be regarded as a special case of the same black-and-white. Almost universally large, in the new season you can wear it in a “total look” variation or complementing the image of contrasting elements, following the always in vogue “golden” rule of opposites and contasts in cut and fabric.

Alexis Mabille, Roland Mouret, Akris, Céline, Comme des Garçons, Sacai, Damir Doma, Jean Paul Gaultier

In a world where tomorrow turns into yesterday with one “click” of a computer mouse, fashion clocks take us ahead of the time for more when a season. As if anticipating the spring of the year yet to come, designers paint their collection in floral prints – one of the few art “excesses”, which Parisian couturiers allows themselves. The most elegant and refined you can find at Leonard. By the way, this fashion house is experiencing its second birth with the arrival of young and brilliant Yiqing Yin, who, besides working at Leonard, creates her own haute couture collections.

Dries van Noten, Elie Saab, Leonard, Emanuel Ungaro, Giambattista Valli, Nina Ricci, Louis Vuitton, Rochas

The key element, setting the tone on French catwalks in second decade of the XXI century – comfort – in the fall-winter collections is expressed in high cozy collars.

Balenciaga, Akris, Anthony Vaccarello, Sacai, Barbara Bui, Haider Ackermann, Vionnet, Andrew GN

And also in knitted leggings, giving to the look a relaxed casual appearance. To avoid unwanted negligence, designers suggest to complement it with accessories or to add “seriousness” by wearing a long coat of a matching color.

Barbara Bui, Chanel, Isabel Marant, Céline, Comme des Garçons, Lanvin, Damir Doma, Vionnet

A desire for masculinity or comfort – what better describes the blurring of sharp lines of the female silhouette in favor of dimensionless oversize? Slacks, cocoon coats, shirts and jackets, as if taken from an athletic man’s shoulder, are dominating the catwalks of Paris, becoming a must have for fashionistas tracking the latest trends.

Balenciaga, Carven, Chanel, Issey Miyake, Julien David, Sonia Rykeil, Vionnet, Rochas

Coat – an indispensable attribute of a winter wardrobe – is ubiquitous in Paris prêt-à-porter collections. Fitted or broad; with convertible collar and without any; made of leather, felt or cashmere. Short, bell-bottomed baby-doll silhouettes are left in the past –the knee length becomes fashionable.

Andrew GN, A.F.Vandevorst, Kenzo, Haider Ackermann, Céline, Viktor & Rolf, Leonard, Valentino

Following the same rule of contrasts, designers suggest compensating oversize coats with daring mini, triumphantly returning to winter catwalks. The trend is very likely to continue in the next spring (2015), and therefore, if you are eager to step ahead of the fashion planet, wisely decision would be to update your wardrobe now. Silhouettes of the sixties like at Valentino, neo-grunge of Saint Laurent or “pacifist” military touch in the spirit of time at Lanvin and Balmain – the choice is yours.

Vivienne Westwood, Anthony Vaccarello, Isabel Marant, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Lanvin, Balmain, Viktor & Rolf

Dresses: the most historically feminine element of the wardrobe undergoes a fashion evolution. The cut gets complicated, asymmetry prevails over classical forms, and “tromp l’œil” effects over one-dimensional texture. Raf Simons still carries the banner of fashion revolution, continuing to experiment with Dior’s new look in most unexpected and interesting ways.

Chloé, Vionnet, Alexander McQueen, Leonard, Givenchy, Tsumori Chisato, Nina Ricci, Valentino, Christian Dior

Like paying a tribute to the inventor of a wraparound dress Diane von Fürstenberg, celebrating this year a fortieth anniversary of her creation, couturiers bring in their collections a sensuality and so much needed in the modern world femininity, playfully (half) baring the thigh with side slits on skirts and dresses.

Leonard, Elie Saab, Jay Ahr, Céline, Chalayan, Vanessa Bruno, John Galliano, Emanuel Ungaro, Andrew GN, Jean Paul Gaultier

As if by a common agreement, designers decided to change the traditional buttons with more utilitarian zippers, turning them into a fashion accessory. If earlier zippers were commonly ‘hidden’ as a kind of underside along with the label, now the trend has changed to completely the opposite: the more your dress has zippers and the more asymmetrical they are – the better.

Jay Ahr, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Balenciaga, Jean Paul Gaultier, Roland Mouret, John Galliano, Chloé, Vanessa Bruno

Following the fashion trends, remember that the most relevant and timeless of them is humor. The best official confirmation of this presents Karl Lagerfeld, who sent his mannequins to a supermarket under the arches of Grand Palais, with food baskets instead of clutches, sneakers s tweed. Do not forget to smile looking at yourself in a mirror the next winter and always 😉

Manish Arora, Andrew GN, Olympia Le-Tan, Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier 

Photo credits are reserved by corresponding brands (plus Patrice Stable for Jean Paul Gaultier and Umanuel Ungaro, Shoji Fujii for Julien David, Frédérique Dumoulin for Issey Miyake)