Concluding the global fashion weeks’ marathon, the Parisian prêt-à-porter of the coming spring-summer season at this time didn’t boast loud sensations. Except for the last collection of Marc Jacobs, that marked the departure of the New York designer from the post of creative director of Louis Vuitton and was awaited by the fashion world with a special anticipation. Gloomy, made in monochrome black, the collection, ended by to which Jacobs compatriots gave a standing ovation, represented a symbiosis and at the same time antithesis of all what fashion designer created for this fashion house during their sixteen years of collaboration. Reconstructed by him the showgirl image unconditionally refers viewers to once again ultra-fashionable grunge.
The trend born in the mid-nineties with a light hand of Kate Moss – the queen of “heroin chic” – last season had triumphantly come back in vogue.
Several French designers were inspired by the theme of grunge at the same time, working it each in their own way. So at Zadig&Voltaire a bohemian heroine of the Parisian beau-monde tried on an image of a romantic rocker girl in motorcycle boots, with a hat and a feminine silk floor-length dress. Alexis Mabille replaced the motorcycle boots by cowboy ones, chose “military” colors and emphasized the waist by a wide masculine belt with a massive buckle, giving to the grunge a hint of western. The newfangled theme was not missed by the tireless “Gavroche of Haute Couture” Jean Paul Gaultier: look for the roughest boots, combined with a perfectly tailored bicker leather jackets and flying cascades of tulle skirts in his collection.
While some designers seek inspiration in the fashion of the past, others cite their own colleagues. Be it a subtle plagiarism or a tribute to the talent, “copied” images only reinforce the popularity of the original. Bell skirts – the “new look” silhouette, reborn by Raf Simons for Christian Dior few seasons ago and continuing to be relevant, is reflected in several collections of Paris designers (Martin Grand, Rochas). At the same time Stella McCartney plays up with slip dresses from the fall collection of Louis Vuitton, while Alexander Wang for Balenciaga draws inspiration from the bar jacket of Christian Dior and transparent skirt combined with a lengthened sweater seen in the fall prêt-à-porter collection of Givanchy.
Waist “on the hips”, arguably exposing navel, inevitably becomes a history: in the upcoming summer the allowed strip of naked body rises above it, therefore dictating an absolutely flat stomach. Pants and shorts designers suggest wearing with a high waist that extends the line of the thigh and, as a consequence, of the leg.
A yoke skirt, to which have returned many Parisian designers in spring- summer collections, allows an unlimited space for stylistic experiments. Mini – at Jay Ahr and Alexander McQueen, or from the finest leather and suede – as Hermès. Midi – at Valentino and Sonia Rykeil, or asymmetric, with large ruffles as Paul & Joe and Alexis Mabille. Even the great Karl Lagerfeld with his unique talent to catalyze future trends in his new collection for Chanel did not ignore the silhouette, with which many couture schools begin their studies. All ingenious is simple.
What could be more feminine and summery than ruffles? Above all on dresses and skirts, but also in the form of “wings” on a blouse, as at the most “urban” of all Parisians lovers of countryside -Isabel Marant, whose clothing choose fashion models and metropolitan bohemians. The most original approach to the subject of ruffles, guaranteeing femininity without sweetness, is worth to look for at Dries Van Noten. The most delicate ruffles you will find at Nina Ricci, while most “Saturday night fever” – at Lanvin.
“In the upcoming season real ladies have to shine, and in the literal sense!” – unanimously declare in their collections couturiers, creating clothes from sparkling and shimmering fabrics. Be it shimmering silver “stardust glitter” like at Gareth Pugh, Vionnet, Zadig & Voltaire and Maxime Simiens. Or a bold gold at Saint Laurent, Lanvin and JPG – the mood of a “movable feast” is guaranteed!
Next spring Parisian designers offer us a more discreet palette, compared to the previous summer season, characterized by a riot of colors.
The white, which in itself is a forerunner of a summer, is still in vogue in the coming season. Designers offer a variety of options, from a short sarafan sun dress in a modern Lolita style by Isabel Marant, or a minimalist silk dress with a gold belt accentuating the waist from Sonia Rykeil, or an original set of an open top and a skirt, which “with flick of a wrist turns into shorts” from Carven.
In the next fashionable summer an alternative to the white will be the yellow. Undeservedly neglected color has finally conquered a place in the collections of Parisian designers. Bright citrus with floral ornaments on a mini-dress à la “baby doll” at John Galliano; with a glossy sheen like at Alexis Mabille and Valentin Yudashlin; combined with a long waistcoat at Chanel or a gentle, in shades of coltsfoot in the body based ensemble at Vionnet – the yellow is indispensable in summer wardrobe of a knowledgeable fashionista.
Another indispensable summer 2014 color continues to be at peak of the fashion for several seasons in a row – the noble blue in all its shades. From the aquamarine like at Hermès and Nina Ricci, to a deep dark blue at Vanessa Bruno and Saint Laurent.
Do not lose their positions floral prints that are found in almost all collections. For the most feminine look at Miu Miu, Nina Ricci and Isabel Marant. For impeccably stylish – at Dries Van Noten, Sonia Rykeil and Stella McCartney. For luxury – at Elie Saab.
Summer – is the time of poolside cocktail parties, social events and floor length dresses. Corresponding outfits you’ll surely find in the collection of Elie Saab, whose prêt-à-porter line in this case favorably distinguishes from a deliberately ornate, sometimes too ceremonial haute couture. Causal cocktail chic dresses with slits in the style of a samba dancing Brigitte Bardot from the “And God Created Woman” movie are irresistible at Giambattista Valli. For a byzantine princess look pay a visit to Valentino, whose spring-summer collection is permeated with ethnic stylistics and, as always, is incredibly beautiful.
Photo credits: Alexander McQeen, Alexis Mabille, Ann Demeulmeester, Balenciaga, Barbara Bui, Chanel, Cacharel, Carven, Christian Dior, Dries Van Noten, Elie Saab, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Gareth Pugh, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Hermes, Isabel Marant, Jay Ahr, Jean Paul Gaultier (Patrice Stable), John Galliano, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Martin Grant, Maxime Simoens, Miu Miu, Nina Ricci, Paul & Joe, Saint Laurent, Sonia Rykeil, Stella McCartney, Valentin Yudashkin, Valentino, Vanessa Bruno, Vionnet, Vivienne Westwood, Zadig&Viltaire