Viktor & Rolf PAP SS2014

On the 28th of September the Dutch tandem Viktor & Rolf presented their new spring-summer collection at the Paris fashion week. Having returned not so long ago to the official haute couture designers list, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, judging by their creations, chose the couture line to fulfill their most ambitious ideas, while the prêt-à-porter they decided to make fairly simple, understandable and maximally “wearable” .

The spring-summer 2014 collection is entirely developed around the theme of school uniforms in the spirit of “Ivy League” colleges. But despite the fact that this topic is not a “reinventing of the wheel”, in the hands of Viktor & Rolf it received a number of interesting and fresh transformations. At the trial of the guests of the show were presented many variations of the classic blazer with sleeves and without, lengthened or converted into a dress. Blazer becomes two-tone, transforms into a cardigan and gets complemented with wide Bermuda shorts. The collection features many appliqués in the spirit of embroidered college emblems on blazers and is full of blue, black and white – the colors retaining their positions from season to season.

Short straight cut dresses in the ’60s style and shirts in the same “school” colors, modestly decorated with studs and embroidery, coupled with hard briefcase bags and loafer shoes with bright soles, easily create an image of a fashionable student. The image that is quite youthful but easily combinable with classic prêt-à-porter looks. The white dress with a skirt of sculptural folds, reminiscent of origami, can be undoubtedly called the hit of the collection. The similar combination was repeated several times in a form of broad skirts and, for example, a leather sleeveless jacket, all referring back to the same club blazer thanks to the contrasting collar trimming.

Please note that this article is covering a prêt-à-porter collection.

Photo credits: Viktor & Rolf / Peter Stigter