Since his appointment as creative director at the legendary house Christian Dior, whose very name is associated with the modern history of haute couture, Raf Simons faced a very difficult task: to preserve classic codes, while bringing in the timeliness and freshness of the twenty-first century. Not losing, but gaining new customers and creating a recognizable signature, different from his honored predecessors. Only a couple of seasons separate the first few timid steps watched, holding the breath, by the world fashion community, from full original collections. But the young Belgian designer with ever greater success sets his style, characterized by sharp graphics of lines and ultra-modern cut.
In the new, colorful and full of freedom, couture collection of the upcoming fall, Simons further expands the scope of the traditional perception of fashion from the CD. The classic “bar” jacket becomes even shorter; its narrowed, in the original version, sleeves expand, becoming almost a sports jacket. Patented by founder of the brand in the middle of the last century “hourglass” silhouette appears to be turned inside out, transforming into a bustier dress with flounced skirts to mid-calf. Such beloved by designer asymmetric draping sometimes give the impression that Raf threw a couple of pieces of fabric on a mannequin just before her appearance on the podium, neatly tying up the resulting outfit with a thin belt. The designer is not afraid to experiment: the transparency bordering at times audacity would have shocked conservative clientele of the fashion house a few years ago, but now it is perceived more as a new «new look» rather than as a daring of the innovator.
While remaining the prerogative of Paris, the new Haute couture à la Raf Simons actively draws inspiration from the cultures of different peoples of the world: authentic multi-layered beads of Masai tribe in Africa, Parisian cravats and scarves of Japanese Shinto – the entire international diversity is reflected in the new collection of Christian Dior.
Remains relatively intact, perhaps, only the gray wool suit with a straight skirt and accented by a belt waist. But for how long?
Photo credits: Christian Dior