Parisian style, especially when it comes to the fall-winter prêt-à-porter season, was, perhaps, never distinguished by a splash of colors and shapes. Moderation and discrete practicality had always been at the heart of French inexpressible chic. Perhaps, the dive of economic crisis, from which the of homeland of haute couture has not recovered yet, accentuated the seasonal fashion trend – next fall in the eyes of Parisian couturiers looks pretty grim, and a wardrobe proposed by them serves to protect the woman from the weather and moral miseries. The newly proclaimed neo-feminine style is far from the militant Amazons stylistics that is being replaced by comfort and functionality.

Except for a few fashion houses, whose clients traditionally prefer to walk on the sunny side of life, regardless of the financial and other troubles, the majority of Parisian collections were dominated by the dark shades. This, above all, is the reigning black. In a mini-dress made of the finest pony skin with transparent sleeves from Akris, in the Gothic version à la Nosferatu at Gareth Pugh; military-chic karakul cap with at John Galliano or classic bustier dresses of Christian Dior and Lanvin – not a single show without black.

White, the antipode of the “king of colors”, is also commonly present in the Parisian collections of the coming full. But, contrary to its traditional symbolism of youth and purity, this time it rather suggests to turn the page and calls to start the life story from scratch. Bourgeois at Giambattista Valli, prudently-ascetic, as if inspired by the image of Swiss private schools boarders, at Valentino, minimalistic at Isabel Marant, with a touch of futurism at Maison Martin Margiela. Even the “doll” dresses of Maxime Simoens and Nina Ricci, implemented in the milky scheme, are imbued with aesthetic innocence, devoid of even a hint of provocation.

Stylistically winning combination of the two basic colors: black and white, as the elements of Yin and Yang, is designed to balance the gray fall routine in a hope for the coming spring change. CD and Costume National, Balenciaga and Viktor & Rolf, Vanessa Bruno and (who would have thought!) so far from casual Zuhair Murad – the fall-winter collections has no shortage of the classic B/W pair. For connoisseurs of impeccable luxury it is worth noting the costume of black jacket with a pencil skirt, which Alber Elbaz (Lanvin) supplemented by a casually thrown over the shoulders white fox boa.

Gray, yet another undisputed favorite of the podiums, requires special attitude. In order not to pass for a “gray mouse”, feel free to choose one of the combinations of this so beloved by Parisians color: a karakul dress with a wide belt and an original hood at Jean-Paul Gaultier or a classic hourglass silhouette coats from CD; casual “effortless chic” of Chalayan and Giambattista Valli; unobtrusive military touch in a jacket with a stand-up collar at Lanvin; practical minimalism at Martin Grant and Céline; drapes at Haider Ackermann; femininity from Vanessa Bruno and Cacharel or theatricality at Gareth Pugh.

The invariable “Parisian” color alternative – red in all its tonalities and textures – is also not ignored by designers of the world capital of fashion. In leather, like Loewe and Jean Paul Gaultier, whose leather shirts are made in the style of military armor, in a fur coat with royal zibeline collar at Valentino; in cozy velvet suits like Zadig & Viltaire or dark cherry maxi-jackboots, like at Paule Ka – designers urge to not stick to the traditional red evening dresses à la “femme fatale”. Besides, the main Parisian secret weapon – carmine lipstick – is still a great accessory for those who are somewhat confused of a total red look.

If you are bored with the red or it feels too defiant, you can get help from more tranquil shades of dark (Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Valentino) or light blue (Emanuel Ungaro, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac), aubergine (Balmain) and fuchsia. The last one, that can be found, for example, in the collection of Dries Van Noten, hardly meets the definition of calm colors, but it will undoubtedly create a festive bright mood decorating a chilly winter morning in Paris in exotic palette.

In anticipation of the spring on the runways and in the hearts, the lovers of prints will be left to be satisfied by minimalist designs. Look for delicate flowers on dresses of Rue du Mail and, traditionally, at Christian Dior, whose creative director Raf Simons continues to be inspired by the Norman garden of the founder of the fashion house. Not less awesome are floral variations in the collection of undisputed “King of prints” – Belgian Dries Van Noten, who, by the way, also spends a lot of time in his country house, surrounded by a beautiful garden. Less romantic, made in the spirit of urbanism bordering with pop-art, prints can be found in the collections of Givenchy, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Felipe Oliveira Baptista. While for “animals” prints you should address the Maison Rabih Kayrouz and Giambattista Valli. On Lanvin dresses crawl and fly beetles and butterflies: in his new collection of prêt-à-porter Alber Elbaz turned to the world of insects. Only Manish Arora is always true to himself and his psychedelic mood that the designer is from India easily transfers on the clothes created by him.

Trends of the cut in the new fall-winter season also prefer moderation and comfort. The coat, that is “the must” for fashionistas of the next winter, designers offer to wear loose, oversized, as if taken from a male shoulder (Céline, Gaimbattista Valli, Stella McCartney, Roland Mouret, LV, Carven). The same idea of unisex is ported to all the elements of the female wardrobe, once borrowed from monsieur: slacks at Haider Ackermann, jackets a couple of sizes bigger than the tiny girls’ shoulders at Vanessa Bruno, men’s shirts with size-less cuffs at Maison Martin Margiela. Classical fitted coats remained only at the conservative Christian Dior.

Fashion trends do not always abide by the strict laws of logic. Sometimes two completely opposite trends become fashionable. Thus, in contrast to a wide oversize, the next season is no less valid for shortened, baring ankle pants. Narrowed, like at Akris, Barbara Bui and Haider Ackermann or broader like at Emanuel Ungaro and Paul & Joe or deliberately flared like at Yohji Yamamoto. Despite the fact that some designers offer to combine an open ankle with male boots (Lanvin) and flat loafers (Paule Ka), high heels in this case would, in my opinion, be more appropriate. Slimming and visually lengthening the leg, they will emphasize the advantages of your figure, masking the possible flaws, and will complete your trendy look.

Sweaters transform from winter necessity into one of the inevitable fashion trends of the coming season. Designers surprised us with a variety of textures, colors and cuts: this cozy element of the wardrobe deserves a separate dedicated article. Especially if it is a soft fluffy angora (Jay Ahr, Balmain, Mugler), or a high neck (Haider Ackermann, Viktor & Rolf, Carven), a big knit (Céline, Zadig & Voltaire, Givenchy), with a long fleece (Sonia Rykeil), or even transformed in a mini-dress (CD, Akris). Easily combined with other types of clothing, be it pants, skirts or (why not?) a knitted body (Vivienne Westwood) – sweaters leave us a lot of space for fashion experiments.

Despite numerous protests from the PETA adepts, the fur (and not always artificial), was widely present on the catwalks on the Paris prêt-à-porter week. An absolute “must have” of the next fashion winter is a short fur coat. In the youngster version it could be made of rabbit fur with a fox fur trimming at Zadig &Voltair; with wide folding collar at Emanuel Ungaro; milky, from a long-haired fur of a mountain goat at Loewe; black astrakhan, slightly elongated at Miu Miu; bicolored, with a zipper at Givenchy; pale blue at Kenzo or black and brown from an artificial fox fur with three-quarters sleeves at Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. An ideal winter accessory, it will perfect any look, be it a floor-length evening dress or casual jeans.

An intermediate to a fur coat – a sheepskin coat, unjustifiably avoided by many Parisian couturiers before, gets its legitimate rights in the future cold season. Short or long, loose or fitted, dark, milky or … yellow – for every taste and color. The most original versions check at Gareth Pugh, whose new collection, traditionally imbued with the spirit of neo-Gothic architecture, seems to be the most realistic one of those presented by this designer to the public so far.

Depersonalizing black, anti-feminine oversize, coats hiding the silhouette – all make an impression that the future conformism leaves no room to eccentric characters, for whom the “epatage” is rather a rule of the fashion game than an exception… But there is always a way out! Sheer, triumphantly ascended to the podium a few seasons ago, continues to be relevant. False-shy at Akris and LV, laced at Barbara Bui, minimalist at Julien David and Chanel, with a light touch of nineties at Saint Laurent, texture contrasting at Ann Demeulmeester.

Evening and cocktail goings out, drowned in the post-crisis mood, are saved by the foreign designers. Bordering with theatrical costumes of Sarah Burton for Alexander McQeen, made in the spirit of Queen Elizabeth; a Victorian “drowned” of the ageless London rebel Vivien Westwood; vulnerable grace of weightless sylphs, created by a Spanish designer duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli for Valentino; Parisian chic of the sixtieths revived again by the Azzaro house and, of course, Hollywood luxury gowns of Lebanese Zuhair Murad and Russian Valentin Yudashkin, who seems to have animated on the podium the characters from our beloved fairytale “The Snow Queen”. Snow-white, with a bluish crystal glittering, fragile, which combines different types of furs and is infinitely feminine – the collection of literally takes spectators into the icy Nordic palace of the Queen, who is watching from her crystal throne the games of her young captives Kai and Gerda.

Hats and other headgear which, thanks to the Russian haute couture designer and a street-look queen Ulyana Sergeenko, whose thoroughly thought looks rarely go without this accessory, from the remnants of the past turned into an integral part of the wardrobe of a modern fashionista. The most interesting variations check in the collection of Yohji Yamamoto, who did not limit himself to one style but created as many as five different looks from a London dandy to a modern “chapeau claque”.

Classic pumps, patented by Parisians, had long ago migrated to the category of stylistic concepts and will hardly ever go out of fashion. If the last winter weather trend is to continue in the upcoming fall-winter season, and Paris will be wrapped again in a cloak of snow, safely hide your delicate legs in trendy jackboots. They were present in almost all the looks of Chanel catwalk, which is a clear indicator of their timeliness in the capricious fashion-world.

 

Photo credits: Akris, Alexander McQeen, Ann Demeulmeester, Azzaro, Balenciaga, Barbara Bui, Cacharel, Carven, Céline, Chalayan, Christian Dior, Costume National, Dries Van Noten, Emanuel Ungaro, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Gareth Pugh, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Haider Ackermann, Isabel Marant, Jean Paul Gaultier (Patrice Stable), Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, John Galliano, Julien David (Shoji Fujii), Lanvin, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Maison Martin Margiela, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Martin Grant, Maxime Simoens, Miu Miu, Mugler, Nina Ricci, Paul & Joe, Paule Ka, Roland Mouret, Rue du Mail, Saint Laurent, Sonia Rykeil, Stella McCartney, Valentin Yudashkin, Valentino, Vanessa Bruno, Viktor & Rolf, Vivienne Westwood, Yohji Yamamoto, Zadig&Viltaire