Jean Paul Gaultier SS2013

A slight perplexity, cleverly hidden behind by the following it delight – this was my feeling after the Haute Couture show of Jean Paul Gaultier. Stripes did not surprise me at all; heavy bracelets, earrings, necklaces, collars and chains were also expected by my imagination, but there was something that was constantly slipping away and not leaving my mind at rest. Most probably these were the shoes, wore over “colored” feet. This is what was confusing. I immediately thought of the Indian gods: Vishnu, Ganesh and Agni. Their skin also bears a distinctive bright color, and each deity has its designation.

Referring to the make-up, I was looking for specific dots on the forehead, and was surprised once again. Each model had a beauty mark, “mouche” above the upper lip. This is a well-known in Europe and in the East ladies’ accessory but is also a kind of language. A specific positioning of the “mouche” could tell a lot about its owner. In this case the beauty mark above the lip spoke of passion, sensuality, charm, flirtation, romanticism and fragility.

At the same time the cut of skirts and dresses suggested the “gypsy” theme. Indeed the collection was inspired by the bohemian Roma images: bright floor-length skirts, ruffles, open shoulders, multicolored patchwork, long earrings and wide belts. But the designer did not forget about his own “fashion codes”: a black tuxedo with accentuated shoulders, perfect trench coat, worn over a flowing dress, bold transparency and famous conical bra that once made Madonna a star.

In this, somewhat confused, state I was waiting for the apotheosis – the wedding dress. In it appeared a famous model Merie Meyer. The skirt on hoop frames, which is quite hard to wear due to its volume, but is convenient… to hide lovely kids underneath.

“Gautier”: I told myself. And then I stopped disturbing my brain with a search of explanations, preferring to enjoy the aesthetics of the spectacle and its originality.

Photo credits: Jean Paul Gaultier / P. Stable