To get rid of all the excess, create a clean silhouette: rich and minimalist at the same time. This is how Christophe Josse described the concept of creating his new fall-winter haute couture collection. Inspired by the works of Japanese architect Tadao Ando, renowned for his “Churches of the Light” – the future of the temples, with structures defying the gravity laws, pacifying the mind and strengthening the spirit with their internal energy, the designer brought to a true perfection the line of the silhouette, emphasizing the contrasting combination of textures and ergonomic cut.
Shiny black crocodile leather inserts are combined with a matte crepe; transparent voluminous organza skirt is balanced with a top embroidered with “dégradé” sequins. “Casual” looks, presented by variations on the theme of a “Little Black Dress” in the haute couture edition, are imbued by anatomical inserts of organza, which instantly discerns the influence of Tadao Ando. The milky-white costume, with the waist highlighted by a golden belt, feminine peplum and a widening at the hips skirt – as if hint to the New Look silhouette, but the New Look of the future, deprived of the possible tightness with the soft lines of the cut and dissonant with flat sandals.
Preceded by several cocktail dresses in the style of Neo Empire, to the podium comes out our heroine – a skirt made of ostrich feathers, to the history of the creation of which we have devoted our reports (Part 1, Part 2). Just a several hours ago, on a Sunday fitting, our feathered beauty was only ready up to the knees, leaving bared thighs. Over the night with the help of our magician Eric the “duckling” turned into a swan. With a bated breath I am watching the swaying of the fluffy weightless cloud, flashing with the movements of the model, and experiencing the thrill of involvement to the most intimate, elite and exquisite – the world of art, because the commercial concept of fashion is not applicable to what is happening ..
The ostrich skirt look is, no doubt, one of the most spectacular in the collection. The following it luxury dress, that causes association with the great film actresses of the period of Greta Garbo, whose cool Nordic beauty is out of reach like a silvery glow of distant stars, takes the breath away. Everything is perfect in it and everything has been brought to the absolute: the snow-white fitted skirt to the floor, peplum inlaid with degrade sequins, a deep V – neck of the top, open shoulders with small feather “wings”. The hall applauds. And the “bride dress” closing the show is strictly in the style of the collection – nothing more, nothing to turn your sight away.
Photo credits: Christophe Josse / Anna Marion
To say that the fall-winter collection of Christophe Josse surpassed the previous, summer one, would not be entirely correct. They are different. And yet, leaving the magnificent buildings of the famous Lyceum Henri-IV, in the library of which the show was held, I can feel its logical conclusion, perfect codes, the DNA of a young but rapidly gaining altitude fashion house, which, I think, reached the qualitatively new level.
Photo credits: Anna Marion