As a real discovery of the past Paris haute couture week we would call the 27 year-old Dutch Iris Van Herpen, for the first time participating in the official schedule of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture (as a “guest member” – membre invité).

Futuristic constructions overlay short dresses (used as a basis of the most looks), leaving the viewer’s imagination to build their own associations. Aliens? Inhabitants of a fantastic underwater world? Guests from the future? Or an anatomy of the body, which talented Iris easily “dissects” as an experienced surgeon? Each of these versions can be reflected in elements of the collection.

Giant sequins in the shape of crystals; leather snakes, tightly binding the body; a transparent plastic “wave”, frozen above the neck, as if caught in a split second to scatter in a million of tiny drops the next instant.

Structures of finest metal (at least by appearance) curved bands create the effect of a space suit (or butterfly’s wings?).

The final body repeats the shape of a human skeleton.

And shoes: incredible, not designed for walking, they complement the already immerging associations. Yes, Iris Van Herpen is a former intern of Alexander McQueen. That explains a lot, but not everything!

Photo credits: Iris Van Herpen / Michel ZOETER