Accessories have long become an inseparable part of a modern fashionista’s image. To emphasize individuality, to create mood or to make an accent – cleverly chosen they can create style wonders. Like a classic string of pearls will give a bourgeois elegance to the simplest little black dress.

Couture designers discovered this secret a long time ago, and no collection is complete without obligatory “decorations”. Whether it be a bracelet, a ring, a necklace or tiara – they produce the right effect on a spectator and a desire to buy the entire ensemble. The new haute couture is associated with new materials. The border separating fine and fashion jewellery becomes more and more transparent. Perfectly cut artificial crystal, indistinguishable from natural stone, is capable of changing colour and shape following the fashion whims.

This is a material of a new era, convinced Nathalie Colin – the Creative Director of the crystal universe of Swarovski. For Natalie crystals are living and the most amazing of all materials she worked with during her accessories designer career. She meets us in her office in the heart of Paris, a stone’s throw from the jewellery heart of France (and perhaps the entire fashion world) – Place Vendôme. However, you can hardly call the workspace of Natalie and her team as “office” – it’s more like an atelier of magical ideas and their implementation into bewitching weightless beautiful pieces. Welcome to … a fairy-tale!

What did bring you to the world of jewellery: a pure chance or a childhood dream?

I’ve always been passionate with accessories. When I was 3-4 years old I was brought up by my grandmother, she gave me lots of fashion catalogues and I designed accessories for the clothes from those catalogues. Since that time I’ve become totally fascinated by accessories. They help to change your look, to express another side of your personality, with less effort than clothes.

Did you follow a special education to become an accessories’ designer?

I’ve always drawn and designed a lot, but unfortunately I was also good in mathematics. Thus my parents decided that I should start with some serious stuff before doing what I wanted. That’s why I got BAC in mathematics and graduated from the High Business School in the East of France first and then I entered the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York where I finally was able to do what I really wanted from the very beginning – to design accessories.

Tell us about your pre-Swarovski projects?

I started collaborating with some young designers still being a student in New York. When I returned to France I joined Promostyl (a French fashion consulting company) as a consultant. I learned the rational and methodological approach to something which seems to be more intuitive – fashion. This experience helped me a lot in the future. Eight years later I created my own design company and spent two years in China working for Chinese brands before returning definitely to France. I met Swarovski for the first time in 1994 and they hired me as a freelance colours consultant. One year later Swarovski were looking for the Creative Director in charge of all their collection and they made me an offer. My first reaction was a surprise – I was running my own company and was not looking for a job. But they convinced me to accept the offer and now I have no regrets.

Could you tell us a little bit about the nature of the crystals? Where are they produced?

The crystal is a very special material which is ‘alive’. We could change its shape and colour according to the fashion mood and existing trend – we can make it more feminine and soft to transmit the romanticism and mystery or more ‘rock’ and ‘dramatic’ giving darker tinges and shapes. Crystals are produced in Austria where we have our headquarters. I stay in constant contact with the main factory to give them my ideas of new colors and cuts of the stones for the new collections. 600 peoples work only in research and product development department! In my own team we have people of 16 different nationalities and all kind of professional back grounds – to have new creative ideas and to be able to make them real we need such diversity.

What are your sources of inspiration? How is the process of creation going on?

The process of creation never stops for me. That’s specific for my profession – we could never stop thinking of what we are creating.

Travelling is an important source of inspiration. As well as the music that generates a lot of pictures and colours in my mind. For example for the last collection, inspired by the world of ballet, I listened to the classical but also rock music.

How are seasonal and couture collections connected?

Both seasonal and couture collections have the same sources of inspiration, they are very connected in fact. I would say that couture collection is pushing the inspiration to another limit giving us at the same time the opportunity to work with the new techniques and materials. That’s why couture collections may have some extravagant and hand-made pieces.

Do you collaborate with some couture designers at the moment?

Swarovski has a long history of successful collaboration with many haute couture houses. Back in early 50s of the last century we had a very close relationship with Dior. And even before, Coco Chanel had already worked with our crystals. We don’t create the collections for couture houses, but design some colours for crystals which they buy from us to make their own pieces.

What is the role of jewelry in fashion and in couture?

Jewelry helps to stress the personality. The accessories tell more about you than a dress. And in a simpler way. It is more intimate than clothes.

Do you think that in jewelry exist the ‘faux pas’?

I think (and this idea perfectly matches the Swarovski one) that the only limits to what you can put on you are your fantasy and personality; you can mix everything you want if you feel yourself comfortable with it! The real ‘faux pas’ would be if you put a piece which is very trendy in this season but doesn’t fit your personality. Another important aspect is the movement – the accessory shouldn’t stay fixed on you, it’d better follow your movements, feel comfortable and natural.

How does jewelry influence the couture?

The frontier between the jewelry and couture pieces become more and more blur. Even within the world of jewelry this frontier is about to disappear – its getting more and more difficult to find the difference between fine and fashion jewelry. Thus I could say that they influence each other.

In which direction is the crystal industry moving?

There are so many projects we are working on at the moment! From one side we are moving towards new colours and colour effects. Swarovski is a leader in crystal cut which is very important since the ability to play with the light and its reflections is the major reference of crystal. The fusion of crystal and other materials is another direction of our developments. I am also dreaming of an intelligent crystal which could accumulate the light during the day and become an alternative source of energy.

How do you spend your free time?

I travel, I read a lot, educate my daughter and i love cooking!

Interviewed by: Tatiana Stolyarova and Rodion Denisyuk

Photo credits: Swarovski / Haute Couture News