We have not “cooled down” yet after the “Clan Mabille”, shown last week within the men’s prêt-à-porter, and the tireless Alexis is back again with the women’s collection of haute couture. Studio-Atelier of Antoine Bourdelle, turned into a museum according to the sculptor’s will, was chosen by the designer for his presentation not by chance. Graphic art is an integral part of the style Alexis Mabille: and the lightness of the designer’s creations successfully blended into the marble interior of the hall – the temple of light with an infinitely high ceiling, solemn snow-white staircase and sculptures, once created by the former owner of the house.
Alexis invites his guests to the land “Through the Looking-Glass”, inhabited by young vestals, mysterious chimeras and ambiguous allegories. Each pristine white look is followed by exactly the same one in colour – the effect of specular reflection, echoing the theme of the collection. White crepe dresses seem to be inspired by the wedding fashion of the beginning of the last century. Behind apparent simplicity of the cut lays perfect geometry of lines and squares, emerging in a weightless silhouette. Non-trivial design decision is manifested in a series of large sheer skirts with satin train, worn over small bustier dresses. With a slight movement the skirt can be taken off and slipped over the shoulders, turning into a cape. Interesting coat-dresses of silicone, decorated with sequin, are suggested to wear like raincoat.
The designer continues to play with the theme of dualism, which signifies in many respects the unique style Alexis Mabille.
Photo credits: Alexis Mabille